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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Manual choke cable. This old Volvo has close to a quarter million miles and although it still runs strong, its starting to show its age.
While some cars loosen up with wear, this Volvo has seemed to tighten up. The clutch has become harder to push in, the steering seems stiff, and the choke has become almost useless. This car is equipped with dual SUs, but the principle of a choke is universal.
It is a device used to enrich the mixture so a cold engine can start easier. It can do it by lessening airflow or increasing fuel. The choke on my SUs performs the later and it also engage a fast idle cam that speeds up the RPMs to help keep things smooth until the engine is warmed up. Hench my starting problem. To address the issue I started at the carburetors. Here is a step by step list of what I did to get everything working correctly again.
After putting the lower part of the dash back together and cleaning up, I attempted a start with the choke fully engaged. Not surprisingly, she fired right up! After tightening up some loose seat hardware and putting away all the tools, I took the old wagon out for a test drive.
I know it was mostly in my head, but the fact that the choke was now working properly and that the seats were not rocking back and forth, I felt like the whole car seemed better to drive. It was more responsive and just felt good. Funny what a little grease and a few turns of a bolt can do! Non working condition.
Used for display only Contact. Going from an old one to a new one can present problems too. OK Dad…. My best guess is that it would take me a day and a half of work to replace the gaskets, the rear of which leaks onto the exhaust manifold occasionally, because you practically have to disassemble the upper engine to get there. Among other parts, you have to remove the strut brace, entire intake system including the manifold, fuel rail, throttle body and injector wiring and the EGR valve and piping.
Oh, I love the simplicity of classic cars! Those Toyota V6 valve cover gaskets look harder in the videos than they are. The second time long story I got it done in Take pictures and mark all the cables and hoses as you disconnect them and it goes pretty smoothly. Order the kit with the new washers; the old ones are not reusable. The seals for the spark plug tubes are a bit tricky to replace; but not especially challenging.
Also, if you replace the EGR valve, the existing gasket in the valve cover will crumble when you remove it. In my experience a little bit of maintenance like Jesse just described will take care of most problems that crop up with SU carbs. This is an excellent clinic that Jesse has just given for dealing with the dead simple maintenance that can make the difference between starting immediately or not starting at all on a cold winter day.
Home Depot and Lowels carry it. It is suppose to loosen anything. They say is a creeping oil. Adjust the amount of choke you pull out depending on the engine temperature. More fuel vapor is present in a hot engine, which requires less choke. Pull out the choke knob more for a cold engine start, or on a cold day.
More fuel droplets and less fuel vapor are present in a carburetor on a cold day, so you require more choke. Switch on the ignition and start the engine. Adjust the fuel-to-air ratio of the fuel mixture delivered to the car engine by pushing the manual choke slowly as the engine heats up to operating temperature. Listen to the engine to determine whether you need to fine tune the manual choke position. Adjust the choke position if you hear the engine make a stuttering or sputtering noise.
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